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GREECE PLACES
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Heralkion Museum
The museum at Heraklion houses the second most important collection of antiquities in Greece, and the chronology of artifacts represent life in Crete from 6300 BCE until the first century CE. The collection of Neolithic artifacts is comprised mostly of ceramic vessels found in sacred caves and tholos tombs, but the bulk of the museum is filled with art from the Minoan era. The rooms of the museum are appropriately arranged for the most part in chronological order, so it is easy to follow the relative evolution of the Minoan culture through its artistic achievements. The first room contains artifacts from the Neolithic and the Pre-Palatial periods, which span a period from 7000 BCE until 1900 BCE. Many beautiful alabaster and ceramic vessels which were found in places like Phaistos, Levina, Fourni, Mohlos, and Palekastro are exhibited behind glass cases. A large vitrine protects a multitude of typical cycladic marble statuettes that were unearthed in Crete. The second room is filled with artifacts from the Proto-Palatial era (1900-1700 BCE). Most of the exhibitions in this room represent the early palace cultures at Knossos, Malia, Zakros, Gournia, and from numerous burial places of the same era. Best known of the artifacts are the bronze knife with the decorative golden handle, and the small pottery pieces which represent multi-storied houses of the era. The excavations at Phaistos have yielded what is exhibited in the third room of the museum. A great deal of "Kamares" pottery adorns the cases with their bold designs and contrasting color patterns, while the mysterious "Phaistos Disk" is prominently displayed in the center of the room.
Artifacts from the later stages of the Knossos palace fill room five. Some impressive, gigantic pithoi line up the wall to the left, and many ceramic artifacts are displayed throughout the room, with the most noteworthy being the clay replica of a Minoan house, and the tablets of Linear A script (which has yet to be deciphered). Room six is filled with artifacts from the Necropolis of Knossos, Phaistos, and Arhanes. The two helmets (one made of boar's teeth, and one made of bronze) are similar to the ones found in mainland Greece, and I found the gold ring-seals to be most impressive.
The eighth room hosts finds from the palace of Kato Zakros. Several impressive rythons are displayed around the room, but most impressive of all is the one made of oryx, and it is decorated with silver and gold (picture). Room nine represents the Neo-Palatial era in eastern Crete, and here we find an impressive array of seals carved in semi-precious stones and ivory. Artifacts from the Post-Palatial and Proto-Geometric periods are exhibited in rooms ten through twelve, and room thirteen exhibits a host of Minoan Sarcophagi.
Rooms fifteen and sixteen are home to fragments of some more exquisite frescos, smaller in scale than the large ones found in the previous room. Room seventeen was closed during my visit, but the next room housed an impressive exhibition centered around the Ring of Minos - truly impressive gold ring decorated with scenes from Minoan life. The exhibit was an attempt to trace the development of goldsmithing techniques, and most importantly to outline the evolution of the thematic significance of the relief found on the ring's face. Following the stairs down to the ground floor one can find art from Archaic, Classical, and Hellenistic Greece. I visited the museum twice during our family vacation in 2003, and the wealth of the exhibited artifacts made both visits worthwhile. It can take anywhere from two to four hours to tour the entire museum, and more scholarly study of the artifacts would command multiple visits. Strolling through the rooms is like a dive into prehistory which provides a unique perspective of how truly extraordinary is the island of Crete .
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