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GREECE PLACES
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Agora of Athens
The train ride was pleasant although the July heat had begun permeating the Athenian atmosphere late in the morning, and by the time we disembarked at the Thesion station we could feel the summer force in full effect. My daughter Alexandra and I had decided to spend the day at the Ancient Agora of Athens which is more suited for a father/daughter stroll than any other archaeological site in Greece. The entire site is relatively level with many foot paths which meander pleasantly around small trees and historical events, betrayed by scattered ruins of all shapes and sizes. "Agora" in Greek literally means "a place of gathering" and the Agora of Athens was the heart of Athenian life in Ancient times. For centuries It served as a busy marketplace where merchants and artisans had
congregated to offer
their goods to all who gathered, and it also provided a platform
for the Athenian political and intellectual life.
Strolling through the ruins of the Agora one can't
escape the unbearable weight of history that hovers about the place,
and yet, the form of the landscape reflects none of the splendor
of magnificent buildings that once adored the place. Nothing the
eyes rest on eludes to the lacy arguments of ancient Greek philosophers
who strolled about leading their pupils, and the exposed stones
speak of the fiery orations of Athenian politicians only in a silent
sort of way. Despite the magnificent rock of the Acropolis that
commands the landscape of the Agora from above, and the majestic
presence of the Temple of Hephestus that balances the Parthenon
across the plateau, the Agora remains a shy, humble and tranquil
place. The Agora displays the tranquility that comes only from having stared at the height of absolute Greatness and into the depths of infinite Cruelty. Its presence transcends centuries and cultural influences from prehistoric times to the modern era, and has witnessed the spectacular transformation of prehistoric Mycenaean civilization to the Athenian Golden era, and the Roman culture. It has also suffered through invasions of every imaginable foe who took its vengeance out on the Agora grounds.
The buildings of the Agora were destroyed in 480 BC by the invading Persians, only to be rebuilt again in the subsequent years of the 5th century BC when Athenian culture flourished into a superpower with immense cultural, political, and military influence. It was again plundered in 86 BC by the Romans, and was slowly rebuilt by the same conquerors who added many new buildings like the Odeon which occupies the center of the excavated Agora. In the next few centuries the place remained the center of activity in Athens and suffered several times at the hands of a multitude of invaders, until it was razed by the Slavs in 580 AD and remained uninhabited until the middle of the 19th century when modern Greece won its independence from the Ottoman empire.
Most of what has been excavated and is visible
on the site bears witness to its turbulent history, and the unearthed
artifacts juxtapose the diverse cultural influences which at different
times imposed their customs on the landscape. The Stoa of Attalos which dominates the East end
of the site was built around 150 BC and was reconstructed in the
1950's in order to shelter the artifacts that were unearthed from
the surrounding area. It frames the Agora on its East end and separates
it from the Roman Agora, and the rest of Athens. It is a museum
worth visiting for its exhibition of a variety of statues and common
artifacts from the Agora excavations. The Christian temple of the Apostles is well preserved
in the Southeast corner and it houses several wall frescos, while
all other buildings expose only their foundations. There is a great
variety of buildings that one would expect to find in a marketplaces
such as stores and workshops, as well as many structures that housed
public events and government functions. The Agora of Athens emanates a serenity which permeates
once time grinds on ancient stones year after year until a millennium
or two later the stones are rubbed smooth and shapeless, and begin
to distance their form from the intentions of the original creator.
No loud declaration exists of the Agora's contributions in the history
of the western civilization. Instead, a mass of silent ruins invite
the visitors to follow the historical clues and to unravel the Ariadnes
thread all the way back to the Theseus' era of heroes. © GreekLandscapes.com Bibliography The Athenian Agora, a Short Guide by Homer A. Thompson,American School of Classical Studies at Athens, 1985
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