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GREECE PLACES
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Acropolis of AthensParthenonThe complex of temples atop the rugged rock we call the Acropolis of Athens in Greece are not a mere collection of ruins, nor are they a mere tourist destination. Acropolis (akro + polis) literally means edge or point of the city, and throughout the centuries in has embodied a much more significant position not in relation to a city, but in relation to an entire civilization. A heavy burden to say the least; but a burden that the discolored marbles carry with effortless grace.
The Acropolis was always a sacred place for ancient Athenians going back to Mycenaean times. They worshiped their gods in temples there, conducted their festivals, and they fortified themselves on it whenever the enemies managed to reach the city of Athens. The temples of the Acropolis of Athens were destroyed or burned several times in ancient times, and the monuments as we see them today were the result of a terrific public project the Athenians
undertook during "The Golden Age of Perikles" circa 450 BC. The whole project was supervised by the famous sculptor and Perikles' personal friend, Phedias. It was designed as a monument to everything that the Athenian thought pattern represented and which placed man in its center of interest. In the monuments of the Acropolis the ideals which forged western thought and culture are embodied in artistic expression and formal stylization of the highest degree. The Parthenon itself managed to push the aesthetic conventions of its time to their logical conclusion: a building that touched the ideal in every formal detail.
The aesthetics of the architectural elements of the Parthenon are breathtaking even in a ruinous state and strive for balance and perfection all at the same time. The Doric columns are imposing and full of life in the way that they bow in the middle as if they are overburdened by the weight of the roof. They all appear perfectly aligned and yet closer observation reveals a controlled anarchy that compensates for the optical effects of light and the nature of the human eye to be fooled by its refraction. The proportions of the structure are well calculated and executed in a way that the temple never looks overly compensated in the measurements of one dimension or another. The fact that there are no straight lines on the building is another well calculated mirage that the ancient architects (Iktinos and Kallikrates) have executed to perfection. There have been countless books that have analyzed the Parthenon over the centuries, and scholars are still studying the structure and trying to decipher its secrets.
Standing in front of the Parthenon -- stripped of all its glorious ornaments -- I tried to imagine it in all its splendor. I tried to see it as if I were an ancient Athenian, and once immersed in the illusion, I could not help but swell with pride that my culture was able to achieve such degree of aesthetic perfection. As an ancient Athenian I saw the splendor of my cultural achievements in Philosophy, Politics, Science, History, Economy, and Logic all embodied in the splendor of Art. I knew that my legacy would last for eons, and that people would come from afar just to glimpse at all of humanity's achievements built into stone. It is not easy to sustain such illusion with all the tourists mingling busily around the rocks, waiting patiently for their place in the photo with the Parthenon. But their very presence from all corners of the earth is silent witness to the temple's stoic contemplation of these eons that passed and left their wrinkles on its stones.
The Parthenon emanates a silent dignity as it stands on the rugged rock; naked of its ornaments, and deprived of a religion to represent. It is but a shell of a structure, and a shell of significance that grew with time to represent all the things that survived to our day. It stands in its ruins as a sign for the things that made IT possible,and for all that we have inherited and made us richer... Philosophy, Democracy, Science, Economy, History, Logic, ... and Art. Art not for the king, or god, or deity; but Art for humanity, with man in its center. The Parthenon would not be as beautiful if it were intact today. Man and weather have scared it for centuries, and their mark has taken its toll on its ancient body. But they have also enriched it with the sweet aesthetics that only time can bestow on an object. And it is this "Time" that I find most interesting to witness on the stones. The marks of the ancient mason's chisel--still visible on stone, the shifting of the earth on the mis-alligned column segments, the violent defacing of the statues, all speak a story more compelling that the individual parts themselves. But I had to move on. I was in the way of the temple's memorable photo with some unknown tourists who have been patiently waiting for their time with the ancient stones.
Practical Information about Visiting the Acropolis of AthensThe Acropolis of Athens is is an archaeological site perched atop an impressive rock in the center of Ancient Athens, and it's the most visited monument in Greece today. The best time to visit is before 9:00 am, and even then in the summer you might find yourself in the midst of large crowds of people. The crowds swell to uncomfortable levels and the heat becomes unbearable after 10:00 am. You will need sturdy shoes (although I always see tourists negotiating the terrain in flip-flops), a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, and two bottles of water.
There is a post office kiosk, and a museum shop next to the ticket counter at the south end of the rock. Buy your water bottles before you reach the ticket counter since the two vending machines (the only place to buy bottled water at the Acropolis) are often out of order, and when they work, the lines are long. Large bags and coats can be checked at the entrance. Tickets cost 12 Euro each and allow entrance to all the major monuments of Athens that you can visit on foot. The ticket is valid for entry in: Ancient Agora, South slope of the Acropolis (Theater of Dionysos), North slope of the Acropolis, Roman Agora, Kerameikos, Temple of Olympian Zeus, and Hadrian's Library. You may choose to visit these sites at different days but the tour can be done in one busy day. Reduced ticket price is 6 Euro, and children enter free. The approach to the Acropolis is possible from two different gates at the foot of the rock where ticket kiosks provide entry. A water fountain, and toilets can be found in the vicinity of the kiosks. One entrance is on the south end, and can be used by those who ascent (a ten-minute walk) from Monastiraki or Thisio train stations. The walk from Monastiraki is the steepest, while the one from Thisio is a bit easier. Once you get your ticket you can move straight up towards the Propylaia (the actual entrance to the top of the Acropolis rock) or you can walk the perimeter towards the Theater of Dionysos. You will have to return the same way to reach the Propylaia again. The other entrance is near the "Akropli" metro station. The new Acropolis Museum is nearest to the "Acropolis" metro station. Once you get your ticket, you can move through the south slope of the rock, past the Theater of Dionysos and towards the Propylaia. In both cases, the hike to the Propylaia is fairly steep but the main path is paved with cement and not difficult to walk through. Signs are plentiful but not always present or clear, so don't be surprised if a guard yells at you for deviating from what they only know is the main path.
The ascent through the Propylea is very steep and you will find yourself walking through a mass of people through a narrow and slippery path. The zigzag approach is a Roman addition to the Acroplis. The Ancient Greeks used a straight inclining ramp. To your left you will notice a pedestal of Agrippa's monument, and to your right the small temple of Athena Nike that seems to be under perpetual reconstruction that has exceeded ten years. Once you pass through the imposing Doric columns -- the same ones the ancient people passed through -- you will be free to roam around atop the acropolis. The ground is relatively level, but not necessarily easy to move around since it is rough or slippery in areas. There is a water faucet at the northwestern end of the Parthenon under a small tree, and four water coolers a little beyond the north facade of the temple, outside the toilets. Expect to wait in line for water. The area around the temple of Athena Nike is not accessible. While this little temple is completely encased in a metal scaffold, both the Propylaia and the Parthenon have multiple parts wrapped with metal scafold as well. In fact, three of the four major buildings that are still standing are obscured by excessive scaffold structures and cranes that exist as long as I remember. The Erechtheion has been going through its own reconstruction, but the restorational aids have been less distracting. Accessibility for persons in need is available through a lift. If you need handicap accessibility, you should call 210 3214172-3 for information and to find out if the lift is operational. The Acropolis Museum has been closed since July 2, 2007. A new one has been built at the foot of the rock to replace it but no opening date has been announced. A tentative date has been given for January 2009, but Greek government time can deviate by one or more years, so double-check before you travel to see the Acropolis museum.
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